The Kurdistan region is appealing because not many outsiders come here. It is still authentic. The Citadel in Erbil dates back at least 7,000 years and is considered the oldest continuously inhabited settlement in the world. When the government forced the residents of the Citadel to move so they could rehabilitate it, they let one family stay, ensuring it would maintain that status. In 2009, the Citadel was temporarily placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list and will receive a more permanent spot once it is rehabilitated.
St. Matthew's Monastery, or Dayro d-Mor Matay, as it is known locally, is another ancient site tucked into the mountains about 20 miles from Mosul. The monastery dates to the fourth century and features a chapel and a crypt that holds the remains of Matthew, a Turkish-born monk who died in 411. Unusual for a tourist site, it doesn't allow photography, but the monks who live there are friendly and showed an Iraqi reporter and me around, leading us into caves where the monks hid from their attackers and showing us an ancient chain that villagers would put around their necks to say a prayer. More recently, Christians who fled the violence in nearby Mosul sought refuge in the tiny rooms of the monastery.
The Kurdistan region is studded with similar reminders of its bloody and not-so-distant past, including the Red Museum in Sulaimaniyah, a converted jail where members of Saddam Hussein's regime tortured and murdered men, women, and children as part of a genocidal campaign against the Kurds. Many of these atrocities occurred in places so breathtakingly beautiful that it's hard to reconcile these postcard vistas (not available yet on postcards) with the more-familiar images of Iraq from TV news.
"It is one of most historical and archeologically endowed places in the world," said Douglas Layton, general manager of The Other Iraq Tours. "It is also scenic, unlike most of the rest of the Middle East—crisscrossed with dramatic rivers, lakes, and snow-covered mountains."